Sunday, February 27, 2011

Febrero: Barcelona (and pictures of food)

I have decamped to Barcelona for the next few months, working in libraries by day and trolling bookstores and catching up on Spanish movies by night.  There are three things that have proven to be indispensable for this particular stay: slippers for cold floors in an unheated apartment; my laptop cable lock to thwart anyone who wants to steal my life's work; and my tea infuser, which I should probably never leave home without.

Here's what else I've been up to:

Days #260-265: Quick trip down to Madrid for an international conference of young Hispanists.  Gave my first paper in Spanish in a room that looked like it was preparing for the arrival of a UN delegation.
Plaza Mayor at daybreak
Day #263: I love running in different places, even places where no one else is running.  Today's route: through the Plaza Mayor, past the Royal Palace and around the Campo del Moro.  Chilly morning in Madrid, pretty sure everyone who saw me thought I was nuts.  Didn't see the King.

Day #264: Saw the Basque author Bernardo Atxaga speak.  When I was asked later what he talked about, the best I could come up with was that euskera is an asteroid in the linguistic solar system and translating a novel simultaneously into Spain's four national languages is tricky.

Day #266: I may be missing the Oscars this year, but for once I got to see Spain's equivalent Goya awards, in their mind-numbing entirety, on TV.  Javier Bardem won best actor for Biutiful. He now has more Goya awards than anyone else.  I wonder if he wishes he could give back that one for Huevos de oro?
Biblioteca de Catalunya

 Day #267: My days in the Biblioteca de Catalunya begin, as does the humiliation of trying to use my rusty Catalan with the librarians.


Day #272: Saw Biutiful, and Bardem definitely deserved that Goya.

Day #276: Working on a project about Mauthausen, and was able to meet a historian and the president of the Amical of Mauthausen today.  Making plans to be at the camp for the 66th anniversary of its liberation.

Day #279: Thrilled to have been in Spain on the 30th anniversary of the attempted coup of February 23, 1981 to nerd out on the retrospective articles and TV shows.  Culmination: saw the movie 23-F, in which all of the bad guys have mustaches, and now I know all of the inside jokes, coño!  ¡Quieto todo el mundo!

Day #280: Three more running routes in Barcelona: 1) Down the Diagonal, 2) To the Sants train station and 3) Along the Barceloneta by the ocean, to the Peix (a big fish designed by Frank Gehry, of course)

Day #281: Back to the library...

February Appendix: Pictures of Food
Lentils with chorizo, crusty bread and a nice Rioja.

Goat and sheep's cheese.  This is what the fridge smells like right now.
Berberechos.  Oh! Cockles.  That's why the woman at the market told me they weren't clams.
The berberecho aftermath.

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Friday, July 16, 2010

La copa del sabático

A colleague said to me in the throws of celebrating Spain's victory in the World Cup: "Nice job, SJB!  You picked the right field!"  Yes, in my mind, watching La furia roja's run-up to the copa was in-depth cultural research, accompanied by beer.  And now I can toss off the relevant names -- Iker, Xavi, Pedro, David Villa, Iniesta, Del Bosque, etc. etc. -- like a pro.

[June]

Day #36: Cleaned out old grad school papers, and remembered how much fun that Galdós class was.  Not.
Day #37: Spain vs. Portugal.

[July]

Day #39: Finished revising a journal article that 2 out of 3 anonymous readers found redeeming.
Day #40-43: Decamped to Brooklyn for heatwave and Manhattan for air conditioning.  Urban high culture attained.
Day #41: Spain vs. Paraguay.
Day #44: Finished reading La voz dormida, a novel about imprisoned women and the post-Spanish Civil War resistance movement, and The Holocaust in Spanish Memory, a book that led directly to my prolonged game of phone tag with an eminent German historiographer who lives in Buffalo.
Day #45: Spain vs. Germany.  Celebrated Spain's win with an imported vermouth on the rocks with a twist of orange.
Day #49: Spain vs. Flandes aka los Paises bajos (aka The Netherlands): ¡Gol! ¡Triunfo!  ¡La copa del mundo!
Day #50: I finally got a card for Northampton's Forbes Library (home of the Calvin Coolidge Presidential Library), took advantage of reading areas and the in-house tea brewing machine, and celebrated at Northampton's most highly-lauded new frozen dessert establishment: GoBerry Frozen Yogurt (aka Noho froyo).
Days #55-69:  On vacation.  Off the grid.  Do not disturb.

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Friday, January 02, 2009

Acategorical Top Ten List of 2008

10. Ada Zelda -- Cutest baby born to one of my friends in 2008 (Note: category unavailable in 2009 due to competition)

9. "Helvetica" -- Best documentary about a font I saw in 2008.

8. Fiddlehead ferns -- Most exciting culinary discovery of the year, this East Coast green helped me move beyond my period of mourning the 18 varieties of lemon available in California. (Pictured at left, with asparagus) Runner-up: Sugar shacks, the best place to drink shots of hot maple syrup right off the still.

7. Black, aka arroz negro -- Best paella of 2008.

6. David Byrne at the Calvin -- Here, the Rock Critic and I agree: the Talking Heads frontman's performance in Northampton, complete with agile modern dancers jumping over Byrne's head, was the best concert I saw in 2008. Runners-up include Wilco at the Shubert, The Hold Steady at Terminal 5, and New Pornographers, also at the Calvin.

5. Dreams from my Father -- Best book to read between November 4th, 2008 and January 20th, 2009.

4. My Parents Got TiVo before I Did -- Most unbelievable technological advance of the year.

3. C, eh? N, eh? D, eh? -- Funniest joke about Canada I heard this year.

2. The Ice Storm along the Mass Pike -- Most eye-popping weather phenomenon I saw in 2008. Runner-up: the 8 feet of snow that kept me trapped in my house one Friday night. OK, maybe it was a foot and 1/2.

1. SJBlog Readers -- Smartest, most loyal blog readers of 2008. And I, SJB, take top honors in the category for most pandering, patronizing blogger of 2008. Everyone wins! Happy New Year!

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Sunday, September 21, 2008

Vicky Cristina Barcelona


The following is a piece I wrote for Flak Magazine, which, sadly, chose pretty much the same moment to implode. So enjoy this exclusive SJBlog-only review:

Woody Allen has made his last four movies cinematically exiled from New York. One could argue that his latest, Vicky Cristina Barcelona, is just another expat romp, but there’s a Spanish vibe that sets it apart from the director’s recent forays to Britain in Match Point, Scoop, and Cassandra’s Dream. It’s been almost 30 years since Manhattan, but Allen’s jaunt to Spain’s most recognizable seaside city resurrects the kind of urban homage that the director weaved in his classic 1979 film. From the first shots of Antoni Gaudí’s iconic Sagrada Familia temple to the parting shots of Javier Bardem’s chiseled visage, it’s clear that Allen and Barcelona formed an unlikely but successful partnership. Allen doesn’t simply set this movie in Spain but rather – as the title implies – casts Barcelona as one of the protagonists. And it upstages Scarlett Johansson.

Vicky and Cristina, two American friends with nothing better to do than kill July and August in Spain, travel to Barcelona with, as the film’s narrator intones, competing notions of love that will ultimately land them in Bardem’s grasp. Vicky (Rebecca Hall) is engaged to be married and doing research for her master’s degree in “Catalan identity,” although she speaks neither Catalan nor Spanish, putting her at a real disadvantage for that lucrative future consulting job, or whatever it is you do with a degree in Catalan identity. Cristina (Scarlett Johansson) tends more toward free love and is riding the wave of an unsuccessful 12 minute art film to a career as a doe-eyed muse. Upon first meeting the tortured artist Juan Antonio (Bardem), he offers to fly them to Oviedo for a three-way. And we’re off!

The film putters along through food poisonings and Spanish guitar recitals while Juan Antonio works his Spanish seductive magic on Vicky and Cristina, until the real object of his volatile desire appears in the form of María Elena (Penélope Cruz), his similarly-tortured artist ex-wife. Bardem and Cruz, who first put their acting chops on display together in the director Bigas Luna’s sex romp parody of Spanish stereotypes ranging from naked bullfighting to ham-centrism in the 1992 film Jamón, Jamón, deftly proceed to wrest control of the film away from Allen’s stilted theatrical dialogue toward a chemistry that benches Scarlett Johansson almost entirely. Bardem and Cruz alternate between Spanish and English as they trade violence for desire in vertigo-inducing scenes that add a genuineness of emotion lacking in Vicky and Cristina’s navel-gazing. Allen himself admits that he didn’t know what Bardem and Cruz were saying to each other in Spanish until he transcribed the subtitles: “It wasn’t exactly what I wrote, but it wasn’t bad.”

While Vicky Cristina Barcelona sticks to much of Allen’s patented formula – the love triangles, the self-doubt, Allen’s own neurosis recast in different characters (here landing in Vicky and her insufferable whining) – the points of departure from his cinematic playbook constitute the film’s livelier moments. Removing his characters from their American comfort zone allows for a scrappier movie, with more surprises than the average Allen film. Although Allen has said that he could have swapped Barcelona for any other European urban center, the combination of the city’s beautifully-filmed architecture and vistas, and two of Spain’s most highly-regarded – and exportable – actors, makes the film a visual homage to the city and, by extension, to Spain. Allen’s barbs at Spain – Juan Antonio keeps harping on María Elena to “Speak English!” in deference to Cristina, who speaks no Spanish, and Vicky’s “Catalan identity” degree needles the sensitivity of a region that fiercely guards its uniqueness from the rest of Spain, regardless of the world’s ambivalence –, the local government’s subsidies of the movie in the face of declining support for Spanish directors, and the traffic hassles incurred when Allen filmed scenes around Barcelona’s most popular attractions piqued the ire of the city’s inhabitants to such a degree that Allen left in a huff. Happily, however, none of his scuff-up with Barcelona is noticeable on screen. On the contrary: as Cristina finds her calling as a photographer and moves beyond capturing images of Barcelona’s tourist sites to snapping photos of everyday life in the city, Allen’s strength in distilling more than just a brochure version of Barcelona and Spain onscreen is clear.

The love quadrangle of Vicky, Cristina, Juan Antonio and María Elena hits moments of deep yet cynical reflection, steamy darkroom hook-ups, and jaunty strolls through city streets magically washed of tourists as each side of the square decides what it is they want out of everyone else. For a moment, it seems as if this bohemian arrangement will sustain itself, but, then again, maybe not. In the end, Vicky and Cristina leave Barcelona with not much more insight about love than they had when they arrived (and not even a basic vocabulary of swear words, which is mystifying after two months among Spaniards), but no matter: the audience is treated to an even better transformation. In a film that is equal parts classic Woody Allen and Global Woody for the 21st century, who cares if Allen understands the dialogue or not? Here’s hoping he continues to shake up the formula and discover new Manhattans more often.

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Friday, September 19, 2008

Dear John,

This is Spain. It is in Europe:







This is José Luís Rodríquez Zapatero, the Prime Minister of Spain:













This is Latin America:














Latin America and Spain are separated by the Atlantic Ocean, a large body of water. Latin America consists of at least 20 countries, all of which have leaders, none of whom are José Luís Rodríguez Zapatero.

You are an idiot.

Regards,
SJB

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Thursday, August 07, 2008

Postdata: Spain

Before I hightail it to the hinterland, I uploaded the greatest hits of my photos from Spain, just in case you haven't had enough of the Iberian Peninsula yet. Frequent and obsessive readers of the SJBlog will also notice that I'm hoisting a new cold one in my profile photo. For the record: it's a clara, which is beer and Fanta limón, a most refreshing drink for a steamy Barcelona night. ¡Hasta luego!

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Friday, August 01, 2008

Day 24: La cuenta, por favor

The sun sets over Parc Güell, Barcelona

BARCELONA, Spain -- It's my last day in the library before I take a few days off and then head on home, so I thought I'd take stock of what I set out to do, and what I actually did this month.

Work (and how!)
Travel (I managed to hit points North-Barcelona, South-Granada, East-Valencia, West-Salamanca and middle-Madrid of the Iberian Peninsula)
Buy a pair of Camper shoes (nope -- I just wasn't wowed by this years' modelos, and what with the dollar being such a pansy compared to the euro...)
Polish up my Spanish and Catalan (I've been mistaken for Spanish once -- which is pretty exciting, considering I could never actually pass for a Spaniard -- and have, as usual, been humbled in both languages.)
See current Spanish movies (No new releases, alas. There just wasn't anything in the theater worth seeing. I have watched 6 or 8 in the library, though, and bought plenty of DVDs to take home)
Eat Spanish food and drink Spanish wine (aside from two days in Madrid when my body roundly rejected all Spanish comestibles, I think I took care of this one. I have eaten paella no less than 10 times.)
Visit friends/colleagues (I never did find the real Gael, but I've gotten to hang out with my friend Adame in four cities, stopped in on a former professor of mine in Madrid, a colleague from Amherst in Salamanca, some friends from Cal in Barcelona whom I hadn't seen in a long time, and my two host brothers from my 1996-97 year abroad, one of whom has changed his name from Jorge to Bhati after a trip to India, which actually doesn't surprise me at all)
Absorb current Spanish culture by osmosis (difficult to quantify, but I did it)
Avoid Spanish lottery pyramid schemes (well, to be honest, I wasn't really expecting this one, but I still failed at it. I was roped by friends into spending 8 euros toward ONCE lottery tickets -- Organización Nacional de Ciegos Españoles, which at least support services for the blind in Spain -- from which our conglomerate won 34 euros, subsequently reinvested in more ONCE lottery tickets. I have been promised a timeshare in Palma de Mallorca when we hit el gordo)

All in all, a good month. Thanks for reading along! Just like my favorite Barcelona lechería (aka dairy barn), the SJBlog is going to be Tancat per vacances for a few weeks while its founder, CEO, and general editor makes her way from Spain's second-largest metropolis to Northern Wisconsin's most isolated, off-the-grid island, reuniting with her twittering dog and patient dogsitter in the process. Fins després!

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Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Day 22: Superagente salvaje y el reino de la calavera de cristal

BARCELONA, Spain -- At this time of year, Spain seemingly trades its native population for the entire population of Western Europe: while Spaniards head for Ireland in August (I have firsthand knowledge that Ireland is brimming with Spaniards in August), the Germans, French, English, Italians and let's not forget Americans wander through the Alhambra with their screaming children, or sport blistering sunburns on the Costa Brava, or walk up and down the Ramblas in Barcelona ordering pitchers of sangría and marveling at the human statues while their pockets are picked. It's a strange little turnabout, but such is July/August in Europe.

Anyway, with all these multilingual tourists to please, the Spanish movie theaters have a full slate of ok-to-terrible American movies on hand, all dubbed into Spanish, and with titles translated for the most part faithfully. Still, I get a kick out of the translated titles, as they're not exact word-for-word translations, rather they shoot for a nice approximation of the overall feeling of the movie. I've already mentioned Dos colgaos muy fumaos: fuga de Guantánamo (Harold and Kumar: Escape from Guantanamo), which is maybe the best translation I've ever seen for an American movie. Here's hoping that the first Harold and Kumar installment was translated as Harold y Kumar: La película más tonta que has visto nunca (Harold and Kumar: The Dumbest Movie You've Ever Seen).

Here are some other translations of American movie titles currently in the theaters, and my re-translation of the Spanish translation back into English:
  • Forgetting Sarah Marshall = Paso de ti = Forget About You
  • Into the Wild = Hacia rutas salvajes = Toward Wild Routes
  • Inspector Gadget = Superagente 86 = Superagent 86 (huh?)
  • X-Files: I Want to Believe = X-Files: Creer es la clave = X-Files: Believing is the Key
  • Made of Honor = La Boda de Mi Novia = My Girlfriend's Wedding (again, huh?)
  • Sex in the City = Sexo en Nueva York = Sex in New York (self-explanatory. As if there's only one City, right? As I've always said, The City varies depending on where you live. I mean, for some Michiganders, Kalamazoo is probably "The City")
  • Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull = Indiana Jones y el reino de la calavera de cristal = Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull (and we have our winner!)

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Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Day 21: La Alhambra

GRANADA, Spain --
You've seen the grand 14th century Arab fortress and palace with its mudéjar tiles and intricate designs...


...now try the beer!

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Thursday, July 24, 2008

Day 16: ¡Adiós, Madrid!

MADRID, Spain -- Of course in my last hour in the library, I've found two or three books that would have been useful, but that I wouldn't be able to get my hands on until tomorrow. But this is my last day in Madrid, so it is not to be. I've gotten some research and writing done; I've been to a museum or two I had never seen before; I've purchased books, DVDs and a CD of curiously rockabilly '80s movida madrileña music with which to amaze and delight my students and colleagues; I have eaten six bowls of gazpacho; I have gone running in the Parque del Retiro three times; I have randomly run into three people I knew at Berkeley; I have walked through the Puerta del Sol in the sweltering heat with a million rabid rebajas shoppers at my heels; I have watched insipid Spanish television; I have been here for the National Tribunal's final report on the 2004 Madrid bombings, for an ETA attack in Cantábria, and for the capture of ETA commandos in the País Vasco; I have seen the oldest Plaza de tientos (see photo) in Castilla la Mancha, where the toros más bravos used to be put to the test; I have purchased empanada at my favorite panadería in Malasaña; and I have observed the sociology of personal fan-use by women on the Metro.

It's been a gas, Madrid, but it's time to go.

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Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Day 14: CCAVM

MADRID, Spain --
Spotted at the FNAC: the primera temporada of Cómo conocí a vuestra madre, right next to Las chicas Gilmore and La familia Addams. I was glad to see that whoever translated the title knew the premise, and didn't go with the easy but erroneous Cómo conocí a tu madre. And that makes me wonder how they're translating How I Met Your Mother in Latin America: ¿Cómo conocí a su madre? ¿Cómo conocí a la madre de Ustedes? ¿Ché, cómo conocí a la pendeja de tu madre?

My attempts to locate the real Gael have thus far proven fruitless. He must be off in a drum circle somewhere.

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Sunday, July 20, 2008

Day 12: Off the Wall in Salamanca

SALAMANCA, Spain -- A quick visit to this University town and I noticed that there's a lot of subversive stuff they're putting on the walls around here.

Exhibit A:Graffiti, 16th Century-style
It's said that back in the day when you earned your degree in Salamanca you'd get your name written in bull's blood (sangre de toro, now a popular Spanish wine!) on the campus walls. Man, all I got was a lousy diploma!

Exhibit B:
Franco
The Spanish government passed a law in 2007 that was supposed to get rid of all the vestiges of the Generalísimo, but the conservative municipal government in Salamanca rejected it earlier this year, maintaining Franco's bust alongside reliefs of all the previous rulers of Spain around the periphery of the Plaza Mayor. At least he's often splattered with three bands of paint representing the colors of the Republican flag, though it's a small consolation.

Exhibit C:
El astronauta
One of the lower portions of the façade of the Cathedral was manhandled to such an extent by visitors that they had to completely redo it: and they decided to have a little fun by forgoing apostles in favor of an astronaut, and replacing gargoyles with a dragon licking an ice cream cone.

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Thursday, July 17, 2008

Day 9: iJam(ón)

Forget the 3G iPhone. I want an iJam. Or an iJam nano. Actually, I think I may have had one for dinner last night.

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Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Day 8: ¿Dónde está la biblioteca? ¡Allí! ¡Vámonos!

MADRID, Spain -- Not too long ago, I was invited to be a representative of the Spanish Department in a preliminary planning meeting for the redesign of the Amherst library. We were told to let our imaginations run wild: what would our dream college library consist of? Computer centers staffed by IT professionals, film and new media pods with couches grouped around the screen, a café with WiFi and decent coffee, access from any side of the building, sweet faculty offices... When I got a word in edgewise, I agreed with some of these high-tech, 21st-century ideas, but also brought up what really concerns me: the books. Somehow, I was hoping that the books themselves would not get lost in this drive to rebuild the library into a hybrid of a Starbucks and your living room. In fact, I mentioned the need to encourage the undergraduates to spend more time with the books, maybe by putting a few comfortable chairs in the stacks and letting natural light filter down into the grotto.

At the National Library in Madrid, it's all about the books. A comfortable chair? P'shaw! A place to commune with your friends? Try the park. Space to spread out? I think not. At the Biblioteca Nacional, you check your creature comforts at the door, the librarians walk around in white scrubs, the air conditioning falters when the reading room is packed elbow-to-elbow with heated scholarship, and when the light blinks red at your assigned desk, you get up out of your straight-backed chair and go retrieve three books. When you're finished with those, you can have some more, but don't get greedy.

In fact, hold on. My light is flashing.

OK, I'm back. The Biblioteca was much more lo-fi when I first started coming in 1998. Instead of personal red lights, there was a communal board up on the wall, and you had to watch it as though you were waiting for your train track to be announced in order to know if your three books were ready. No one had laptops and there was no WiFi, so I, like everyone around me, was taking notes longhand. There were computers, but the collection hadn't been transferred entirely, so there was still a card catalog to deal with.

Ten years later, things are a little fancier, there's a digital collection, laptops are everywhere, but these chairs are still uncomfortable and the red light is blinking again and Cervantes shoots you icy stares from atop his frilly collar in every room*, and I think it must all just be to remind us that we have to suffer a little to get anything done in this crazy, mixed-up, academic world.


* Note to Professor T: Today I'm sitting under Seneca...

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Sunday, July 13, 2008

Day 5: Paella, paella, paella, paella, goose!

VALENCIA, Spain -- Tonight I partook of la quinta paella -- the fifth of five paellas -- over the course of a little over 48 hours. Valencia is the birthplace and proud keeper of the Spanish paella tradition, and I agree: it's better here. The first two paellas we ate al fresco at a traditional Valencian barraca, a waterside grass-roofed house in the heart of La Albufuera, a national park with a long, skinny lagoon where paella was, in fact, born.














The next two were at La Pepica, an historic seaside restaurant in the city that ol'Ernest Hemingway made famous in his posthumously published novel The Dangerous Summer. I was able to confirm at La Pepica that the mixing of arroz negro (which gets its hue from squid ink) and the paella variation we had before us (not technically paella valenciana, which includes rabbit), is not a faux pas. In fact, to me it recalls the classic New York black and white cookie: such culinary harmony. Served with lemon and alioli, a spread of garlic and olive oil whipped to a creamy consistency, we had no trouble polishing them off.













It just seems right to spend a beautiful Sunday in Valencia eating nothing but paella, so we topped it off with a paella mixta (with chicken, green pepper, shrimp, and chirlas -- tiny bite-sized clams) crafted by Mario, who claims that having summered in a town south of Valencia as a kid makes him a self-styled homemade paella expert. Judging by his paella, I have no reason to doubt this argument. It was a little sickly-looking only because we lacked azafrán (saffron), which gives paella that warm yellow glow.

Sadly, after I leave Valencia tomorrow, I'm going to have to start thinking about something other than food.

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Saturday, July 12, 2008

Day 4: Mmm...pescado

VALENCIA, Spain -- Scenes from the Mercado Ruzafa:

Fish

SJB thinking about fish

Tender bunnies

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Thursday, July 10, 2008

Day 2: The Phone Company Behind the Curtain

BARCELONA, Spain -- Last night I took a walk around the Gothic Quarter where I'm staying, and headed over to the Cathedral, which is illuminated at night. I was dismayed to discover that not only was the Cathedral not illuminated last night, but it's covered in scaffolding and undergoing major renovations. That's fine: I'm sure it needed it, and I can live with some scaffolding. But, no, instead we're forced to look at huge drawings of what the Cathedral would have looked like, had the scaffolding not been there. And an annoying advertisement for Telefónica, Spain's national phone company, superimposed over the drawings. And their three-language plea to "buy a stone," and support the renovations. Whatever happened to the collection basket?
Tomorrow, the iPhone hits Spain, and Telefónica, magnanimously, will be giving away iPhones in exchange for a two-year contract, monthly usage quotas, and new customer's male heir. Spain's general lag in technology is nothing new, as my attempts to get a wireless internet connection to work in the country's most forward-looking city has proven, so I'm curious how this iPhone thing will pan out. Last time I checked, Macs were as scarce as Jews around here, but maybe things have changed.
Then again, judging by Telefónica's self-serving advertisement on Barcelona's second-most famous Cathedral, maybe they haven't.

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Wednesday, July 09, 2008

Spain, Day 1: SJB y Kumar en Barcelona

BARCELONA, Spain -- I was welcomed to El Prat airport this morning by a whistling throng of protesters, protesting something I couldn't quite discern, as well as a reporter from Spanish Television who wanted to know why the wait through customs was so long. Unfortunately, I fulfilled only one of her two qualifications: I spoke Spanish, but I'd gone through customs in the relatively serene Amsterdam airport, avoiding the hullabaloo in Barcelona.

Now, as I jetlaggedly reaquaint myself with the city, I have a few observations:
  • Apparently the soccer star Ronaldo is losing his hair, because he's on billboards for a hair replacement treatment system.
  • Dunkin' Donuts is called Dunkin' Coffee. As I will not eat there, I will not be able to confirm or deny the availability of donuts.
  • The new Harold and Kumar movie has been translated as "Dos colgaos muy fumaos: fuga de Guantánamo," which I would translate back to English as something like: "Two Really Stoned Stoners: Escape from Guantanamo." I will not be seeing this movie.
  • Food report (aka B-smack shout-out): lunch of grilled monkfish with clams and a glass of cava, plus a euro's worth of figs, all found at the Boquería, a marketplace off the Ramblas.
More to come...

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Monday, June 09, 2008

¿Quien soy yo y adónde voy?

A month from today I'll be in Spain, embarking on a 28-day research voyage that I also hope will help me avoid the kind of conversation I had at a BBQ this weekend:
Intrepid Reporter "M": How do you say lukewarm in Spanish?
SJB: um...
I.R. "M": ¿Caliente-frio?
SJB: um...*

My non-classroom vocabulary always suffers when I haven't been to Spain in awhile.

Here's the proposed itinerary (light blue lines indicate possible side trips) and dates (click on the pin markers):

View Larger Map

Now all I need to do is find places to stay in Barcelona and Madrid; read all the things I didn't have time to read during the semester but need to have read before I hit the Biblioteca Nacional; catalog the books and films I own, so I don't buy anything I already have; and figure out where I need to go in each city and what I need to show them to prove that I'm an eminent scholar who needs access to whatever they've got. Among other things...

* Augh! It's tibio.

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Monday, March 10, 2008

Cinecharla: Pedro and Pan

I'm teaching a film course this semester: Representation and Reality in Spanish Cinema. We like sexy titles around here, although I probably could have pimped this one up a little. At any rate, since my work on Leopoldo Alas and the Darwinian Revolution doesn't really blog all that well, I thought I might share some of my thoughts on this, a most accessible and Netflixable subject. There are only so many things a Spanish professor can offer as a public service.

We've discussed the Pedro Almodóvar oevre in class, highlighting ¿¡Qué he hecho yo para merecer esto!! (What Have I Done to Deserve This?!?, 1984) and Volver (2006), though we also watched some clips of La ley del deseo (Law of Desire, 1983, not for the faint of heart) and Mujeres al borde de un ataque de nervios (Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown, 1987, romptacular!).

¿¡Qué he hecho yo...!! and Volver have a lot in common, despite the twenty year gap and fairly distinct subject matter (as I pointed out on this review I wrote of Volver, which, ahem, I assigned to the class), and lend themselves to the film enthusiast who wants a quick and dirty introduction to Almodóvar, especially "serious" Almodóvar. This is the Pedro who kills off characters with a sharp blow to the head with a leg of ham, while also delving into the isolation and, as one student put it, 'me against the world' sensation felt especially by women as Spain transitioned from a divided post-dictatorship nation just scraping by economically to a newly rejuvenated European nation, with all the attendant issues of immigration, flight from the countryside, and domestic unrest that come with it.

Next up was our section on Spanish films from the 1950s and 1960s, none of which you can find on Netflix, which is a shame. I've mentioned to my class my desire to remake the 1965 allegorical war movie La caza (dir. Carlos Saura) into a Hollywood blockbuster, starring Matt Damon and Harrison Ford, and changing the ending so that the rabbits win. My class seems eye-rollingly unimpressed with the project (but some of them come to class in their pajamas, so, really, how much can you trust them?).

Right now we've been studying the Mexican filmmaker Guillermo del Toro's movies, including El laberinto del fauno (Pan's Labyrinth, 2006) and El espinazo del diablo (The Devil's Backbone, 2001). Both of these films are Spain/Mexico co-productions, with a decidedly ideological take on the Spanish Civil War and postwar conflicts. They're also horror/thriller/suspense/fantasy movies, which is a departure from the aforementioned allegorical war movie, although -- surprisingly -- there's some commonality there, too. Both of these films rise above their Hollywood trappings to sustain discussions on what determines a film's nationality as well as what del Toro's signature interweaving of fantasy and reality lends to the movies. I'm not a big fan of scary movies -- I had to watch The Orphanage in my office in the middle of the day with the lights on -- but these two are relatively tame by American horror standards, and worth seeing.

Coming Attractions: More ham!

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